| INDEX | MEDIEVAL & RENAISSANCE | 1600s | 1700s | 1800s | 1900s | CROSS-ERA | ETHNO | |
| MISCELLANY | EARLY MUSIC | CONTACT | SEARCH | 
|
| INDEX | MEDIEVAL & RENAISSANCE | 1600s | 1700s | 1800s | 1900s | CROSS-ERA | ETHNO | |
| MISCELLANY | EARLY MUSIC | CONTACT | SEARCH |
|
| MISCELLANY |
I either own or have perused the books in this section. Enclosed critiques reflect my personal opinion of them.
| Alcega, Juan de. Tailor's pattern book 1589. Carlton: Ruth Bean, 1999 | see amazon.com |
 Facsimile
edition of a Spanish pattern book, with English translation. The patterns
are pretty rough and come with unusual (period, Spanish) measurements, so
they're definitely unsuitable for the novice tailor. Still, if you're interested
in the era, this is where you get info on virtually all kinds of garments.
 |
|
| Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion:
The cut and construction of clothes for men and women
c1560-1620. London: Macmillan, 1985. |
see amazon.com |
| Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 1: Englishwomen's
dresses and their construction c. 1660-1860. London: Macmillan, 1972. |
see amazon.com |
| Arnold, Janet: Patterns of Fashion 2: Englishwomen's
dresses and their construction c. 1860-1940. London: Macmillan, 1972. |
see amazon.com |
 Ms
Arnold had access to some very rare garments in costume collections from
which she re-constructed flat patterns. The most valuable and easiest to
use resource for authentic patterns. Note that only the first covers men's
garments. Although the other two focus on "Englishwomen", the
dress styles were pretty much international. |
|
| Baumgarten, Linda, and John Watson, Florine Carr. Costume Close Up : Clothing Construction and Pattern, 1750-1790. Costume and Fashion Press, 2000 | see amazon.com |
 Apart
from patterns taken from North American surviving garments, it contains
detailed pictures, notes on the fabric used, construction and provenance,
if known. I've never seen any book that examined each garment as thoroughly
as this, even mentioning how the fabric was pieced, whether the garment
was mended or altered later. Colonial re-enactors will love it.  |
|
| Davis, R. I. Men's Garments 1830-1900 : A Guide to Pattern Cutting and Tailoring. | see amazon.com |
| There are extremely few resources for historical men's garments. This is one, Waugh (below) is another. | |
| Harris, Kristina, ed. Authentic Victorian Dressmaking Techniques. Maneola: Dover, 1999 | see amazon.com |
 Reprint
of Butterick's "Dressmaking, Up to Date", 1905. The title is therefore
a lie: This is Edwardian. Instructions for shirtwaists, draped waists, skirts,
evening and wedding gowns, jackets and coats, maternity wear, underwear,
children's. |
|
| Hill, Margot Hamilton, and Peter A. Bucknell. The Evolution of Fashion : Pattern and Cut from 1066 to 1930 | see amazon.com |
 If
I remember correctly, this one contains rather crude pattern diagrams without
measurements, but I may be mixing it up with another book I have seen. |
|
| Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen
: Patterns for women's dress Medieval-1500. Studio City: Players Press, 1991(?). |
see amazon.com |
| Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen
: Patterns for women's dress 1500-1800. Studio City: Players Press, 1991. |
see amazon.com |
| Hunnisett, Jean. Period Costume for Stage & Screen
: Patterns for women's dress 1800-1909. Studio City: Players Press, 1991. |
see amazon.com |
 Being
meant for theatrical costume designers, the book has largely authentic patterns,
but pragmatically cuts ends where technique is concerned. Still, if taken
with a grain of salt, it does answer some "how-to" questions that
others do not. Wonderfully complimenting the Arnold books. If you're not
overly concerned with authenticity, all three Hunnisett books is all you
need to sew away from the middle ages to the early 20th century. |
|
| Köhler, Carl, ed. by Emma Sichart. A History of Costume. Maneola: Dover, 1983 | see amazon.com |
 English
translation of a German book published in the 1920s, which again was a revised
edition of an 1860s book. Contains patterns from Pharaonic times onwards,
many of them probably only obtained by conjecture from pictorial sources.
Well, better than nothing. As a source for serious research, this book should
not just be taken with a grain, but with a chunk of rock salt: Like most
of his contemporaries, Köhler failed to question his sources. Big advantage:
In the mid-19th century, there probably were more of the very old garments
around, and in better shape, than now. |
|
| Thursfield, Sarah. Medieval Tailor's Assistant: Making
Common Garments 1200-1500. Quite Specific Media Group, 2001 |
see amazon.com |
| Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Men's Clothes : 1600-1900. London: Faber & Faber, 1994. | see amazon.com |
| Waugh, Norah. The Cut of Women's Clothes : 1600-1930. London: Faber & Faber, 1968. | see amazon.com |
 The
patterns are not easy to use, but there are lots of them - plus interesting
background information on period technique, fabric, garment costs etc. The
by-period coverage is more extensive than Arnold's, i.e. there are hardly
any decades/styles not covered. Unfortunately they're pretty expensive,
but still a very good investment. I can't imagine my bookshelf without
them. |
|
| Waugh, Norah. Corsets and Crinolines. New York: Routledge, 1996. | see amazon.com |
 Apart
from valuable background info, this book also has patterns for virtually
all eras in which corsets, crinolines, paniers or bustles were worn. The
source for making the "below". |
|
| Wright, Merideth. Everyday Dress of Rural America 1783-1800: With Instructions and Patterns. Dover, 1992 | see amazon.com |
| An introductory book, covers female, male and children's dress. | |
|
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