How to Make a Contouche

Part 2: The pattern



The Pattern

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The pattern here is for a 1750s/60s robe, chosen for its simplicity. With minor changes, it can also be used for 1730-50 (see Variations page). The robe should be worn over smallish hip paniers (considérations, pocket hoops) as was customary this late in the century. There's another page on making paniers.

All measurements are in centimetres. Where it says "viel Zugabe" in the pattern, add a lot of allowance. "Taschenschlitz" means pocket slit. The skirt parts must be extended to the desired skirt length, which of course depends on your height. This pattern fits a person of about 160-165 cm height and 80-90 cm waist width. With the dress being open in front, one size fits more - adjust the stomacher, pleats and a bit of the side seams. The measurements given are not too accurate anyway - be prepared to do some fitting. Speaking of the stomacher: That piece is missing here. It's easy to make it yourself - see page 6 of these instructions.

Once you've understood the principle of the pattern, you can even adjust it for different panier sizes and styles. See page 8.

The vertical lines in the pattern are on the straight of grain. Stripe patterns are vertical. In the 18th century, patterns often ran around the arm, but patterns running down the arm are fairly frequent, too. Same goes for sleeve flounces. For pleated strips and skirt flounces, the pattern runs across.

Next step: The lining


 

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